By Howard Bryman
Scientists have identified a new genetic group of the Arabica coffee species in Yemen. The new genetic group has been dubbed “Yemenia,” as it is said to exist only in Yemen and is being touted by Yemeni coffee specialist exporter and roaster Qima Coffee as a potentially industry-shifting discovery on par with the discoveries of coffee genetic mother populations Typica/Bourbon, SL17 and SL34, from which all other known Arabica varieties and cultivars have descended. The first auction at which these coffees appeared was held on September 15.
"Considering the diversity within the Yemenia group, I believe there are very positive indicators for significant potential of similar magnitude to the impact and reach of the Typica Bourbon group," Qima Coffee Founder and CEO Faris Sheibani told STiR Magazine.
The research and development project that culminated in this discovery was conducted by agricultural research firm RD2 Vision in partnership with Qima Coffee. RD2 Vision is the company helmed by coffee geneticist Christophe Montagnon, formerly the scientific director at the agricultural research and development non-profit World Coffee Research.
In its announcement of Yemenia on its website, Qima puts forth that over the thousands of years since Arabica coffees native to the lush forests of Ethiopia were introduced to the more arid, mountainous terrain of Yemen, an evolution occurred through adaptation and natural selection. Only now, with the resources and determination of Qima Coffee and RD2 Vision has this research been conducted, revealing what remained isolated due to generations of a challenging political and geographical landscape in Yemen that was an obstacle to an industry that marched forward, scientifically and logistically, in other regions.
"Yemen has been largely neglected in the coffee academic world and in the market for the last several decades," said Sheibani. "The reason for this probably has something to do with Yemen's inaccessibility and instability. From our own experience, operating in Yemen is extremely difficult and would probably exceed the risk appetite of most."
As with any new scientific discovery, the discovery of Yemenia has also been met with some skepticism. Boot Coffee Founder Willem Boot has publicly questioned the veracity of the claims, specifically noting in correspondence with STiR that a study by WCR that started in 2014 in collaboration with scientists from Yemen and elsewhere was partially summarized in an article posted September 18 on the WCR website as having found “no unique, untapped genetic diversity when compared with the main cultivated varieties worldwide.”
"This statement seems to be diametrically opposed to the claim by Qima that they found 'an entirely new mother population of varieties unique to Yemen,'" said Boot, who is also one of four founders of the Mokha Institute along with Mokhtar Alkhanshali, founder of competing Yemeni coffee specialty exporter Port of Mokha, which has its own auction slated for November 11.
Stay tuned for more developments in the next print issue of StiR magazine.