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By Helen Xu Fei
Zhejiang is one of China’s economically advanced provinces located in the lucrative Yangtze Delta Economic Zone. The coastal province borders Shanghai and Jiangsu to the north, Fujian to the south, and Jiangxi and Anhui to the west. It is known as the “Land of Silk and Tea.”
The rolling hills and subtropical climate makes Zhejiang one of the most suitable sites for growing superb green tea. Teas from Guzhu in northern Zhejiang were highly praised by Lu Yu in his masterpiece “Classic of Tea” and in the 8th century the first royal tea garden was constructed at the foot of Mount Guzhu. Each spring 13,000 local tea workers were engaged to produce premium spring tea for royal consumption before the April Qingming festival.
High-grade Kaihua Dragon Topl containing only tea buds.
The royal tea garden shifted to Fujian in the 10th century and production was switched to the then-prominent Dragon and Phoenix cake. Leaf grown in Zhejiang would turn flat and tasteless when made into such refined tea cakes. As a result, Zhejiang did not follow the trend seeking instead a more suitable way to produce the best tea from fresh local leaves. In time Zhejiang became China’s leading producer of loose leaf green tea.
Today, green tea accounts for 70% of Zhejiang’s output. Industrialization in the past 40 years has greatly slowed the development of Zhejiang tea production but it remains China’s leading tea exporting province, accounting for half of China’s export volume. The majority of Zhejiang’s export is low value conventional green tea such as chumee and gunpowder. Much of the conventional green tea exported by Zhejiang is outsourced to other regions and then refined or blended in Zhejiang.
In 1978 Zhejiang launched a tea project to restore historical gourmet teas and create new teas. The program has since generated a good response in the US, according to Shengyuan Chen, executive director of Delaware-based Firsd Tea. “US tea drinkers have become more sophisticated and selective,” she said. “That is why we decided to set up operations in the US to listen, communicate, and help bring to the consumer more of Zhejiang’s specialty teas,” said Chen whose company is affiliated with Zhejiang Tea Group, a 60-year-old firm that ships 40,000 tons of tea a year and is the top green tea exporter in the world.
To improve brand building and marketing gourmet teas, the Provincial Department of Agriculture in 2004 launched the Zhejiang 10 Top Gourmet Teas competition. This quinquennial (five-year) competition promoted gourmet teas that display excellence in taste, sufficient supply, and were grown according to GAP (good agricultural practices). The rules required these commercial teas to possesss a sound track record regarding safety and quality, and high levels of market recognition.
The competition offered a practical guide to foreign buyers sourcing gourmet-quality tea from Zhejiang.
Winners of past competitions include the renowned Xihu Longjing (West Lake Dragon Well, winner in 2004) and Anji Baicha (Anji White Tea, winner in 2004 and 2009). These two prize-winning teas are already available in overseas markets.
Listed below are some less well-known winners which were recognized in both the 2004 and 2009 competitions. Many are completely unknown to overseas tea buyers.
Dafou Longjing (Giant Buddha Longjing)
The tea is from Xinchang County of East Zhejiang, named after monastery of the Giant Buddha, an historical attraction. Dafou Longjing was created in the 1980s, adopting the processing skill of the famous Xihu Longjing. The leaf of Dafou Longjing is slenderer and less smooth to touch than the Xihu counterpart. Dafou has a drier sensation under the common longjing flavor of roasted chestnut. Top quality Dafou tends to have a floral hint, though the aftertaste is not as sweet and lasting as Xihu Longjing.
Dafou is a value as it compares favorably with Xihu. Some dishonest tea sellers may sell Dafou or longjing from other regions as the renowned Xihu Longjing. It is unlikely that there is fake Dafou on the market because the price won’t justify adulteration. Longjing from Shezhou County is a new comer, also a good choice.
Kaihua Longding (Kaihua Dragon Top)
From the densely forested mountainous Kaihua county in the westernmost part of Zhejiang. It was created in the late 1970s. The tea is very neat in look, shaped like the tiny tongue of a sparrow. Top grade Kaihua Longding is made from tiny tea buds of early spring and tastes superbly delicate. Once brewed the tea buds will rise vertically in the cup to form a spectacular view. Longding is a refreshing high-grown tea with round-mouthed sweetness and a hint of minty dryness, the floral flavor is as delicate as the Chinese orchid. Kaihua is a scenic place to visit. It borders Anhui and Jiangxi. After enjoying Kaihua Longding and forest bathing, one can further this gourmet tea touring trip to south Anhui and northeast Jiangxi which are also famous origins of quality green teas.
Songyang Yinhou (Songyang Silver Claw of Monkey)
From Songyang County and neighboring Suichang County in Southwest Zhejiang. This tea was created in the early 1980s in Songyang. Production later expanded to neighboring Suichang. As the name indicates, the tea is fluffy with white hairs and in a slightly curled shape like the claw of a monkey. It has a pleasant aroma and unique chestnut sweetness.
Huiming Cha (Huiming Tea, also known as Gold Medal Huiming)
The history of this tea dates to the Ming Dynasty. It was initially produced by Huiming, a monk who grew tea by the monastery named after him. It is a slightly curled wiry tea, with full bodied strength and a fruity sweetness.
The tea is also known as Gold Medal Huiming for a gold medal awarded during the 1915 Panama Pacific International Exposition. (Among the 1915 Panama Expo Gold Medal winning teas, only Huiming emphasized the honor by inserting the words “Gold Medal” into the tea name. Huiming tea was less prominent in China prior to this recognition. Huiming has an “ordinary” look that may have gone unnoticed by gourmet tea lovers. Adding “Gold Medal” made this tea an eye-catching gourmet choice.
Wuyang Chunyu (Wuyang Spring Rain)
This tea from Wuyi County (formerly known as Wuyang Chuan) in central Zhejiang. The tea was created in the 1990s. It is shaped like pine needle, with a delightful taste of fresh pea with an intricate vegetal aroma.
Wuyi boasts the largest organic tea garden in Zhejiang. Tang Ji Gaoshan Cha (Tang’s high-grown tea) is a gourmet organic tea from Wuyi. Outside Wuyi it is less well known due to limited output. Tang’s high-grown is less spectacular in appearance, but has a full bodied taste, briskness, and superb aroma that makes it a must try for gourmet green tea lovers.
After enjoying Wuyang Chunyu and Tang’s high-grown, one can relax with a hot spring bath at one of the hot springs. Then take a two hour drive to Jinyun County where you can surrender your taste buds to Xiang Cha (fragrant tea), a fragrant specialty tea in Jinyun. As the name indicates Xiangcha boasts of a vigorous fragrance.
Lujian Cha (Green Sword Tea)
From Zhuji City in lower north Zhejiang. It was created in the late 1990s. The tea is made from pure tea buds, in the shape of slender and straight sword blade. Once brewed, the buds will stand up in the glass like a sword forest. Lujian is delicately mellow with fresh green bean flavor.
Gourmet teas usually grow in a scenic environment. Lujian is grown in the northwest suburb of Zhuji City near the famous Wuxie Scenic Park. Wuxie refers to an array of five beautiful waterfalls flowing from the jade green mountains into the crystal Luxie Lake. Summer is the best season to visit Wuxie especially after a heavy storm. The summer counterpart of Lujian is semi-oxidized Jinjian Cha (Gold Sword Tea), with a taste between green and oolong tea.
Jingshan Cha (Jingshan Tea)
From Jingshan Mountain in the Yuhang district of suburban Hangzhou. Jingshan tea was initially a monastery tea. The history of the Jingshan Monastery dates to the 8th century Tang Dynasty. Tea has a close relationship with Zen Buddhism, whenever possible, Chinese monasteries uphold the traditional of cultivating monastery tea gardens to ensure adequate supply for both monks and visitors.
Jingshan Wanshou Temple and Monestary was home to 3,000 monks at its peak, and its tea garden was expanded to meet increasing demand. Jingshan Monastery was one of the most influential Zen Buddhism monasteries in southeast China. Its fame attracted many visitors who praised the intricate Jingshan tea served by the monks. Jingshan tea gained national recognition as one of the most superb gourmet teas during the Song Dynasty (the prevailing processing method then was steamed green tea).
In 1235 Japanese monk Enni Ben’en (1202-1280) first studied under the Rinzai teacher Wuzhun Shifan at Jingshan. The Jingshan tea ritual of the Song Dynasty was later carried to Japan by Nanpushaoming and later adapted by Japanese tea masters to establish the Japanese tea ceremony known as Chado.
Jingshan became obsolete as modern brewing methods rose in popularity in the Ming Dynasty. Jingshan tea processing methods changed to pan frying after the revolution of Chinese green tea processing method in the 16th century. The monastery declined in the 20th century due to civil wars and political turmoil, and was further jeopardized in the Cultural Revolution. The tea from this region eventually was reduced to a shadow of its past glory.
In the late 1970s plans to restore Jingshan were initiated. There were few clues to the tea processing since the monastery, which was constructed 1,200 years ago, no longer produced tea. After years of trial and error, the resurrected Jingshan tea is now standardized as a pan-fried and then roast-dried green tea. It is a slightly curled tippy tea, with mild briskness and a very faint spiciness.
Historically it was the steamed version of Jingshan that rose to great fame. Perhaps a return to the ancient steamed method of processing will release the innate beauty of Jingshan tea.