Biodynamic Brazil

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A blind cupping by 16 of the best Cup of Excellence judges in the world awarded a complex Brazilian natural all-time record score of 93.60. The coffee from Fazenda Camocim was the first coffee produced by biodynamic methods to ever win the top prize.

By Kelly Stein

It was a typical hot day at Domingos Martins in mountainous Espirito Santo. Henrique Leivas Sloper de Araujo was leading a group of Cup of Excellence (COE) visitors on a tour of his farm. He first explained how raised beds are important for uniform drying. He then described in detail how the farm’s post-harvest machinery selects the best cherries.

Nothing new until he begins describing the vital role that manure-filled cow horns buried in the dead of night, mineral crystals, and cycles of the moon improve the sensorial qualities of his coffee and create a healthy environment for all.

“Plants, insects, animals, and people – mankind – are intertwined, working together, as one living being,” said Sloper with a big smile. His approach, which is unconventional and uncommon, was credible because Sloper had just earned the highest cupping score of any natural in the history of COE competitions. The Alliance for Coffee Excellence notes that the 93.60 score, awarded by a panel of judges from 16 countries, also earned Sloper a place in the history books as the first farm from Espirito Santo to win top honors and the first biodynamic coffee to ever win first place in any COE competition globally.

The tropical heat was stifling checking out the processing machinery, the warehouse and the greenhouses where the coffee is dried.

But as soon as the guests entered the coffee plantation all could immediately feel a steady refreshing breeze. Shade-grown coffee is not very common in Brazil.

Soil moisture is more easily retained under a canopy of trees and bushes, making the temperature bearable. Vegetal material on the farm conveys an image of a sloppy or messy lot for most producers and coffee professionals. Sloper explained that leaving ground cover in place is an important technique for enriching the earth with nutrients.The shade guarantees higher humidity for the coffee trees, even in a drought that harms yields on conventional farms.

ALSO: Biodynamic agriculture in Brazil

Biodynamic practices assume the farm as a unique living holistic organism. The emphasis is on discovering the source of problems, not treating its symptoms.

“When we identify the reasons for plagues or disease, we define a strategy to solve is based on biodynamic methods allied to modern technology. We use, for example, soil and leaf analysis in labs to assure that the biodynamic procedures are effective,” he said.

The role of the producer is to let nature take its course, to serve as an intermediary and maintain the environmental health of this unique organism.

“Some purists will judge me for using machinery in my plantation, but I like to embrace ancestral techniques with actual discoveries,” he explained.

As an alternative for organic farming, biodynamic agriculture concept started with the Austrian writer, philosopher, social activist and educator Rudolf Steiner (1861–1925). Some may consider this is a step forward in food production, an evolution of organic treatment. Steiner believed that ecologically interrelated tasks (natural fertilizers and alternative ways to control plagues and disease) are enhanced by emphasizing spiritual and mystical perspectives.

“We consider planetary alignment to make strategic decisions here. For example, we avoid work on the fields or making big changes during an eclipse because the cosmic forces are pretty intense at that time,” explained Sloper.

His first contact with biodynamics was in 2007 when his friend Nicolas Joly, the famous French winegrower, visited his farm. “He asked me if I could see the elementary beings in the forest. I laughed at him at that time, but now I get it,” he said. Since then, alternative and spiritual methods are applied in all property.

Considering that coffee is a perennial crop, the way to cultivate biodynamically is quite different when compared to vegetables such as lettuce and tomatoes. That is why he hired an on-site biodynamic specialist to monitor changes in material or energy.  A special agricultural calendar for coffee guides his decisions through the year. Biodynamic practices take into account lunar and astrological influences on soil and plant development. Harvests, pruning, fertilization, and soil management is determined both by the phases of the moon and constellations in the zodiac.

Steiner’s method calls for nine different biodynamic preparations that are used to improve soil nutrition and enhance plant performance. These mixes are numbered from 500 to 508. The first and most basic is used to prepare the fields. The rest are used to generate a rich compost. Steiner believed that his techniques connects cosmic and terrestrial energies in the soil. The preparations are placed in horns from a cow and buried.

“The [role of the cow’s] horn is the energy connection. It is like an antenna signaling the universe,” he explains. “We use a cow horn for every five hectares. It is important that this animal has given birth before removing its horn,” he said.

Sloper fills the horns with organic manure and buries them in different places at Fazenda Camocim, leaving them in the ground for six months. After this period, he then mixes this energetic preparation with water in a wood barrel and applies the mixture on his fields prior to the arrival of winter. The ‘preparation of light’ calls for 60 grams of crystal (silica) mixed in 60 liters of water and it is applied before summer. These elements are mixed in a barrel close to the coffee plants. The ritual takes one hour.

“The staff takes turns mixing everything with a swirl or vortex. The preparation day is almost a party because everybody is gathered for this purpose,” said Sloper.

According to the Brazilian Biodynamic Association director Alexandre Vidal, this philosophy is not common in Brazil yet.

“Curiosity and interest in biodynamic farming has increased in the last few years. More producers, even traditional ones, are looking for Demeter certification,” he said.

The main obstacle slowing adoption of biodynamic agriculture is a lack of information. “People confuse these techniques with black magic or witchery,” says Sloper with a smile.

The Demeter certification, a global brand that assures that producers are following the biodynamic procedures, guarantees that Fazenda Camocim is respecting this philosophy in different products. Besides specialty coffee, the property also produces jams, jellies, coffee blossom honey, coffee cascara tea (from coffee husks), and also the famous and exotic Jacu Bird coffee.

The original 160-hectare farm was acquired by Olivar Fontenelle de Araújo in 1962, but the coffee plantation expanded to 300,000 plants when his grandson Henrique Sloper took over the farm’s management in 1999.

Sloper respected the family’s tradition and did not use chemical and industrial products such as fungicides and fertilizers in the fields. The coffee is surrounded by native fauna and flora in a special part of Domingos Martins city.

The astonishing monolithic rock called Pedra Azul (in a rough translation – Blue Stone) enriches the mystical scenery. It is visible from any point on plantation, which enjoys a privileged view.

 Fazenda Camocim was the pioneer in organic coffee production in Espirito Santo. The farm began growing specialty coffee in the 1990’s.

“The transition process from organic to biodynamic wasn’t expensive. Usually, shifting a traditional farm to organic/biodynamic agriculture can be pricey but my lands were all organic already. The biggest investment was in training the staff,” explained Sloper.

Nowadays, the property’s production is certified by Demeter (international biodynamic certification), it has earned the Brazilian Specialty Coffee Association’s quality and sustainability certification and is certified organic by IBD (institute that manages organic certification in Brazil.)

 With all these certifications, the international market started buying his products especially the high-quality coffees.

“The biodynamic coffees are now exported to 27 countries in Europe, the US, Australia, and Asia,” he concluded.